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Dec 10 10 6:58 PM

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Hi all!

I am about to embark on a full repair of the jumping cursor issue.  I haven't started yet, but will likely do it this weekend.  I was collecting information from around the 'net and putting it together as a bit of an instruction guide for myself, and thought it might be useful to others.  It isn't done, but thought if I have missed anything this might be a good time to find out.  I am going to try and write a comprehensive guide once I am done, based on what I have here.

For the record -nothing- in this is my own.  It is ALL cobbled from stuff lying around the net.  I've never even opened my modbook, though I will shortly.

Any thoughts on the process?  Any steps I've missed?  Anything else that can be done to beat the dreaded jc?

Take a look if you know anything about jc and might be able to lend some insight.

Thanks!


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ericn

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#1 [url]

Dec 11 10 3:45 PM

Wow, what an awesome reference: Step by step through the whole process. 

I don't think I could add much. I have noted elsewhere that I suspect that the shielding in step 3.5 is particularly important.

Good Luck Dylan

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#2 [url]

Dec 12 10 10:02 PM

Thanks,

I have put the repair on hold for a couple of days.  I have decided to finish up the guide and take it to a local electronics repair and supply shop and see what they can offer in terms of kit and guidance.  One of the things I've found recently is that there have been people using MASKING TAPE to solve thier problem with jc.  It seems that in some cases there is an issue with contact between components on the opposite halves of the modbook.  I am going to see if there is some sort of thin insuating sheet that could be put between the two halves to stop arcing... but of course I am going to have to consider airflow. 

I am going to try and have V1 of the guide completed tomorrow night (it's still really rough and there is some stuff to add) and then I will revise it after I complete my repair.

Hope it is helpful to someone!

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#3 [url]

Dec 18 10 10:54 PM

Hey all,

So I (finally) bit the bullet and opened up my modbook.  I am very, very happy to report that:

1) I had no pinched or melted wires

2) That the repair was actually easier than I suspected

3) That I have been unable, despite trying my best, to make my cursor jump.  I have run the modbook for 3 hours at a time doing processor, hard drive and network intensive tasks, both plugged and unplugged, with the bluetooth on, on and in use, and off, and even with the gps unit active (just in case I ever find out how to use it)- and NO jumping cursor whatsoever.  I am a very, very happy boy.

4) Furthermore:  The stylus input is snappier and even more accurate- even close to the edges (though not perfect- but it is pretty damned close!!)

5) It also seems to have solved my peculiar problem of the cursor misbehaving at times when I touched the screan bezel ( it would jump to the edge of the screen opposite where I was touching (skin only)... i could still move it but it was nowhere near the stylus. - it would return to the stylus if I moved my hand or arm from the bezel.)

I will be putting everything together in about the next week and posting the finished manual.  I should have taken more pictures, but I think I cobble together a pretty exhaustive guide at this point.

Some of the things I learned:

There are actually SEVERAL holes in the metal shielding on the back of the digitizer (screen).  I would suggest doing your best to patch at least the obvious holes, where the wires come through the shielding. 

I tested to see if there was contact between the two halves of the modbook anywhere- and there are a few places where metal components make contact between the two sides- use a sheet of carbon paper). I don't know if this matters, but I would cover the metal box on the 'Axiotron' side of the modook.  I used 3m 'High Adhesive' masking tape and it seems to have worked well.

I came up with what seems to be a thinner patch by sandwiching:
-High adhesive masking tape (sticky side up)
-aluminum duct tape- the actual tinfoil type, not the plastic stuff (sticky side up)
-woven wire sheath from coax cable, harvested from about a 6 foot length of cable (in strips across the tape, expanded enough to leave some of the adhesive exposed).
-aluminum duct tape- the actual tinfoil type, not the plastic stuff (sticky side down, so that it adheres to the sheathing AND to the other piece of foil duct tape)
-double sided tape... I used 3M poster tape... it is basically a strip of glue once the backing is removed.

I made the foil and sheathing part first and then cut it to shape, but about 0.5-1mm smaller than I needed all the way around, and then applied the masking tape and poster tape to either side and trimmed it to the right size which left about a 1mm margin around the metallic patch. (I was worried about shorting anything out.)

I also couldn't find the thick white insulating tape that others have used on top of the connector between the mod and the macbook donor half, so I made a patch of 3 layers of super adhesive 3M super 33+ High adhesive electrical tape, which seems to have worked.

Also, a note about putting it all back together- I did not have success simply reversing the instructions for dis-assembly.  Things simply would not line up, AND there is a tab on the bottom of the axiotron mod that is wedge shaped that would not fit back into the slot it cam form at all.  With some experimentation I found that there were a few screws inside the battery compartment that had to be removed first to accomdate the wedgie-tab, and that I had to replace the screws in a different order... I will explain it in more detail when I put the instructions together.  If you need the details to do your own repair before then ask here and I'll explain as best I can.

I am SO happy with the results!!! I have never been able to use the modook for more than about 1/2 an hour at a time, until now. 

Now, if I can find a way to make an invisible arrow cursor and get quickscript to send to system textboxes I am going to be in a state of nirvana.  Of course screen rotation would be nice too, but I think my head will explode before that happens.

Now to do a clean SnowLeopard install...


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ericn

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#4 [url]

Dec 19 10 10:45 PM

I'm glad it worked out so well. We all look forward to your notes.

EricN

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#5 [url]

Jan 2 11 3:28 AM


Hey all,

just wanted to let you all know that I haven't forgotten about you. The guide is coming, but I have been swamped with work & the holidays. I will try and get it posted in the next few weeks. Thanks for being patient!

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#6 [url]

Feb 28 11 6:40 PM

Hi, all!  I have added the shielding fixes from ' guide.  It's been three days and I have had no jumping cursor problems whatsoever.  No matter what I do, I cannot get the problem to reoccur.  
Yay me!  

 
Now.  Can someone besides Axiotron figure out how to implement Synergy Touch?


I'm an over-educated, over-medicated, under-paid, under-motivated, under-stimulated Beta-male.

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#7 [url]

Jun 3 11 12:04 PM

Hey all!

I have found over the last month that the rare occasions that I get DJC (now down to a couple of times a month) I have been able to deal with it extremely effectively by wiping down the screen and bezel with an anti-static wipe!  It works EVERY time and I gt no recurrence until there has been time to build up static again- which seems to depend on a lot of different factors, like your clothes, the weather, ...and the whims of the gods.

You can buy them in individual packets and keep a handful in your bag.  It's an easy fix, and I have even suggested it to a couple of people who have really serious issues with DJC and haven't done any sort of other fix.  They have seen real improvement- it doesn't seem to last as long or work completely, but it does help.

Hope that is useful to someone!

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